Thanks.
the only confusion now is the website for Bintel recommend the F/4 for astrophotography. I will have to try and find time to call them today.
Thanks.
the only confusion now is the website for Bintel recommend the F/4 for astrophotography. I will have to try and find time to call them today.
*Many of my photos are up on Flickr. http://www.flickr.com/photos/mickyj_photos
*My equipment etc is all listed at http://members.dodo.com.au/~michaelj...ritephotos.htm
*My Photo blog http://members.dodo.com.au/~michaeljenkin/photoblog.htm
Sure, the f/4 would be "better" but at least now you are aware of the compromises that might entail.
I'd ask them specifically, "Can I achieve focus with a DSLR with this telescope as it is supplied ?". It's a yes or no answer and they'll know exactly what and why you're asking.
not a bad setup... be aware that if you get a reflector like this you will have to move the primary mirror up the tube so that you can focus with your dslr (prime). go for a simalar mount and a ed80. the ed80 is a 80mm refractor and is great for imaging. it also fairly small. you will be ably to mount your camera to this easily without modifications (just t-adapter.)
goodluck.
MTFBWY...A!
Buying used is also a viable option at the level you are looking at. Just as if you were looking at buying a 5D2 and L lenses, you can be a little more confident that the seller has looked after the gear. Not many people would buy a HEQ5 and ED80 to show Johnny the moon, but if they're upgrading to say an EQ6 and astrograph, you can get a very good deal. In this case the ED80 is a pretty safe bet, whereas a newtonian has a few more things to check (eg. the mirror coating, focuser travel, etc).
If you haven't found it already, Ice In Space is a good, active Australian astronomy forum with a useful for sale section.
Steve.
Thanks. I have been looking around and not found anything 2nd hand yet. I have not rulled out 2nd hand
I have started my ordering with Bintel. Now I am waiting like an expectant grandparent.
They inform me that the BT200 OTA units are designed to work with DSLR's at Prime focus without moving mirrors etc. I will be going the f/5 and will need to save for an ED80 another time
I have dropped the H-Alpha idea for now and am going with a CLS-CCD clip in. I will also get the Shoestring USB2 cable and a 5Amp power supply.
The solar filters (white light) and collminator devices will have to come later
Well good on yer, Mickey. One thing you shouldn't have is disappointment, from the sounds of it.
Am.
Congratulations. That sounds like a great setup that will get you going straight away and will keep you going for years to come. From there you can buy parts as you need or want them. You may find that you get used to collimating without a tool and never need to spend the money.
Welcome to the dark side.
I had a false start today I got the CLS-CCD and it was a UHC-E in the container
Sending it back to Bintel
Hi mickyj
When you move from DSLR + camera lens astrophotography to DSLR + Telescope astrophotography on an tracking/auto guided equatorial mount, it is a significant jump in terms of the equipment, set up, technique and processing skills required to produce pleasing astro photos with nice, round stars that will inspire you to continue, rather than simply frustrate you with equipment limitations!
Have a look at this excellent website which explains the topic very well.
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TOC_AP.HTM
Cheers
Dennis
Bintel shipped me the correct CLS-CCD. They were very appologetic and helpful.
I am sitting here looking at my T Adaptor, Shoestring USB for Heq4, CLS-CCD, Heq5 power supply and I have a Canon 500D full spectrum on it's way. I went with a 500d as it is lighter, has live view and 1.6 crop.
Due to the way Bintel handed the CLS-CCD mix up and the great advice I have received from them, I just ordered the rest. I have a great feeling about them. I also ordered even more so now I am truely anxious on the wait for the delivery!
I can't wait for the weeks ahead of learning. I know it is not going to be as easy as taking snaps and stacking. I think alignment is going to be my first challenge.
So, what else makes up my package?
I thought I would put in some prices etc so that anyone else reading this and begining down this road can see what this cost and can plan to beg the bank or wife for funds.
Camera dovetail mount $30 (Well worth it) to go onto the heq5
Astronomik Ha (Hydrogen Alpha) EOS filter clip filter $229 (Yes, I got one afterall. I have a full spectrum camera coming so I thought I might as well break the bank)
Collimator eyepeice and other bits $59 + $79
Smaller weight for DSLR $49 as the default weights are too heavy
bt200 /5 Reflector + heq5 pro $1699 (8" 200mm x 1000mm). ED80 Refractors were recommended but I could not afford it. I went for wide aperture, least distortion. The mount has Goto as part of the Pro setup.
8" white light - solar filter $179
A dew cap for this setup was not recommended.
I confirmed this reflector would work at prime with DSLR without focus issues. This unit is designed for DSLR with a slighly longer extension tube for viewing. The mirrors do not need moving.
They recommended software for alignment - eqmod/eqalign
So I think I got away cheaply for $2324 + Shipping.
Of course you need to add the camera cost, T adaptor, shoestring, CLS-CCD ($219) and power supply ($69). then you might need a laptop, comfy chair, some torches, carry bag etc
Somehow, I felt pleased on reading all this.
OK, next time I'm in SA I will definitely visit!!!
I agree about the H-alpha filter, esp with a modded camera.
Am.
The H-alpha filter will mean that you can keep imaging while the moon is out which gives you a lot more useful nights than the rest of us (who are tucked up in bed ).
There are quite a few options for polar alignment and everyone will swear by their preferred method.
I'm a big fan of EqAlign but could never reliably get the DSLR liveview to appear as a webcam. You might just want to get a webcam if you're going that route.
There's another tool called Alignmaster that works well with computerised mounts.
I thought I read somewhere that there was a new version of firmware for your mount that added a polar alignment function similar to the Celestron "All star polar align" function. That allows you to align the mount with just the hand controller.