Beginners, What do you want to learn next?

[ricktas]

Following on from Nikkie's thread about what you have learnt, which is a great discussion, I thought finding out where you are up to with your photographic learnings and what you want to learn next, or don't understand, might prove to be a more valuable discussion.

So what do you want to learn about next? Or what don't you understand? regarding photography

[kiwi]

I think I need to still learn a lot about studio lighting ratios and techniques

I class myself as a beginner in studio work

[ricktas]

Your best friend in the Studio would be a good quality Light Meter Darren.

[kiwi]

Your best friend in the Studio would be a good quality Light Meter Darren.

I have one, Sekonic. It's more about light placement and ratios and especially posing.

I think a lot of its practice, and I just don't do much of it

[Terri]

I would like to learn how to get the white balance right! I only shoot jpeg so I would really like to learn to get it right in camera :)

[kiwi]

I would like to learn how to get the white balance right! I only shoot jpeg so I would really like to learn to get it right in camera :)

If you want to get it "right" in camera (you'd be better off using RAW)

Using the right camera preset to start with is a good idea (eg. Cloudy if outside) etc. You can also use devices like an expodisc to preset a "right" wb or use a grey card or neutral reference point in the shot so you can change the wb in post processing

[Nikkie]

thanks Rick this will be a big benefit to all of us not just learners but even those what want to learn more. I am just starting to put ISO and fstops together but the shutter speed is still a big thing for me. IE a bird flying, a car driving, a man chopping wood, dogs running around or playing. There are so many different types of speeds from something not moving at all to a car race horse race so on so there forth in my understanding there would also be so many different shutter speeds that one should use for different types of movement. Is there say a good starting point for each or some of these like for an example the bird flying is not going to be flying in your cameras distance for long so say I am outside taking photos of flowers and a bird fly past I can or should be able to get the camera from the flower to the bird but not having the right shutter speed this I think would be very hard scenario to do to catch the bird. But say I went out to try and shoot a bird flying and waited until on flew by is there a good rule to thumb that I should have shutter speed set to at least for starting point because I also guess this would depend on the speed the bird is flying as well. for one example Darren and Tony told me that a good ISO in most case's is around ISO 100 and a good fstop is around 8 I think that is what it is by memory. So what about shutter speeds.

[Duane Pipe]

Sandy here is a link to a thread with some really good advice from Tony that he gave me regarding birds in flight
http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?87150-Yesterdays-Wedgie

[Terri]

If you want to get it "right" in camera (you'd be better off using RAW)

Using the right camera preset to start with is a good idea (eg. Cloudy if outside) etc. You can also use devices like an expodisc to preset a "right" wb or use a grey card or neutral reference point in the shot so you can change the wb in post processing

Thanks very much for your reply Kiwi. I have not worked out how to process RAW - when I try to open it in Photoshop it doesn't actually "see" the file?

The best luck I've had with in-camera WB has been using "Auto". When I try to get smarter and use settings like cloudy, for some reason I never seem to pick the right one. I guess it's about persistence and practice.

What do you mean by "grey card"? Is that just exactly that - a piece of card coloured grey? And then I would match the card (actual) against the card (photo) on the screen in photoshop? (please don't laugh if I have this all wrong :rolleyes:). Why grey too?

Sorry, maybe too many questions. I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel now (albeit tinged blue :D).

[Nikkie]

Sandy here is a link to a thread with some really good advice from Tony that he gave me regarding birds in flight
http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?87150-Yesterdays-Wedgie thanks very much Duane I will go and read that now thanks a lot

[s1l3nt]

Terri, to get photoshop to "see" your raw file, you need to install a plug in. Which from memory is called CameraRaw, update that and you will be able to see and edit your raw files :)

To do this you click on help then go to updates. And let it update your application.

[Ms Monny]

Others can probably give you more info, but PS won't open the RAW files, you need either Lightroom, or another program that specifically opens up the RAW file, then you transfer to PS for more editing. I use Lightroom and find it fantastic for editing whitebalance, exposure etc. RAW saves more detail than JPEG (deletes some pixels for compression) but will give you a very flat, dull image when you put it into LR because it doesn't do ANY editing in the camera. If you shoot JPEG, the camera does some editing like exposure and colour, as well as other things. YOU ARE THE EDITOR and you determine how you want the image to look like, not the camera! Love RAW, but I still have to get my head around the dull flat image thing sometimes! LOL

[Ms Monny]

I would love to learn more about Photoshop. I have just started understanding layers and how to dodge and burn in those, but I know there are soooo many other things you can do to make the image 'sparkle'.

I would also love to learn more about taking photos of people - but not the average in-studio look - more the character-down-the-street look. I know that sounds vague. Street photography is starting to become a big interest....pity I live on a property in the hills! Not too many people here! :D

I would also love to learn how to use a medium format camera. A person is willing to lend me his Hasselblad, so I can have a bit of a play. How to develop properly in a dark room (did this in school but not afterwards) would be fantastic as well.

Soooo much to learn, i can't wait!! :D

[Terri]

Ms Monny, can you alter WB in Lightroom in a jpeg file, or does it have to be RAW?

[Ms Monny]

Yes, you can alter WB in Lightroom with a jpeg, but because you have set either auto, cloudy etc in the camera beforehand, it will have an affect on the image BEFORE you adjust in LR.

When you set your camera for RAW, then there is no WB done in the camera (don't be fooled by the image you see on your camera screen, this is just what the camera THINKS you should be seeing, not the RAW image).

If you want, why not shoot in both RAW and jpeg at the same time (if your camera does this) and then compare them in Lightroom or Cameraraw? You will instantly see what you can do with the jpeg photo compared to the raw photo, plus you will see just how many megapixels they both have...raw will def have alot more, meaning more detail wasn't thrown away like the jpeg image.

Have a bit of a play, nothing to lose. :)

[ksolomon]

I have pondered over this question I know what I am currently learning and also need to practise and improve upon which is lighting, flash and off camera flash including exposure. I guess the other thing that has come from this is I really still don't understand when I need to adjust "one or two stops" or exposure compensate I normally just move my f stop and/or shutter speed re-test then adjust again if necessary I would like to be able to know off the top of the head what to do properly.

[salnel]

Well, I guess the next thing I want to work on are actions shots (which, at the moment, are spectacular failures!!) I am saving (and hoping Nikon do something fast) for a long lens as I would really like to get into birding etc..but for now, I plan to use my dogs as subjects. So I have been reading everything I can on fast shutter speeds, etc and, if it ever stops raining here, I hope to get out and try. So stay tuned for some rather ordinary shots! All help and advice gratefully received:D

[s1l3nt]

@MS Monny - you can alter raw photos in photoshop :) I know I sure do :P USing a plug in called Camera Raw. I use cs5.1 photoshop. Not sure about older versions :) Should be fine in them too id say.

[Tommo224]

Flashes and external lighting!

I recently discovered while in a club taking photos of friends, that if I held a card in front of my flash to direct it upwards, they'd come out with more natural skin tones instead of white like ghosts haha.. Upon talking to Keefy, he sparked an interest in Strobing and stuff like that!

[colinbm]

I have gota learn all about RAW, Sigma Photo Pro 5, & the next stage after that, in PP be it PSE8 or CS3 ????????
Cheers
Col

[Ms Monny]

@MS Monny - you can alter raw photos in photoshop :) I know I sure do :P USing a plug in called Camera Raw. I use cs5.1 photoshop. Not sure about older versions :) Should be fine in them too id say.

Yes, I know but you can't do it in PS WITHOUT a program (or plugin) like LR or Camera Raw. PS alone can't process raw images. :)

[Tjfrnds]

I'm another for wanting to learn more about OCF. I'm still making my way through 'light, science & magic' and am practicing with manual speedlites...it's a slooooww process:)

[colinbm]

Yes, I know but you can't do it in PS WITHOUT a program (or plugin) like LR or Camera Raw. PS alone can't process raw images. :)

What about Adobe Camera Raw ??
Col

[Scotty72]

What about Adobe Camera Raw ??
Col

Yes, it's a free add-on and once installed, it is seamless to use.

[ricktas]

For those wanting to learn about flash, We could enhance the AP Strobist forum or you could pop over to STROBIST (http://strobist.blogspot.com/) and learn, then come back here and show us what you learnt.

[fess67]

I am with Kiwi,

I have the kit, just need to practice more :)

[ricktas]

You can also try and organise an AP meet in your area that is focused on studio settings, lights. poses etc and learn from the experienced AP members in your area. It has been done in Victoria a couple of times now and the members who went along had a great time. Learning flash on the net isnt as good as learning it by doing!

[Tommo224]

I find I learn best by watching people and trying it for myself! So a "strobist" class (once I have an external flash) would be awesome :)

[graemelee]

What about the Histogram? I would like to know more of its value and use? and is it useful in camera or should it only be used in post processing.Im not sure how it can improve the photo taking?

[ricktas]

What about the Histogram? I would like to know more of its value and use? and is it useful in camera or should it only be used in post processing.Im not sure how it can improve the photo taking?

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

[Dizzle]

For those wanting to learn about flash, We could enhance the AP Strobist forum or you could pop over to STROBIST (http://strobist.blogspot.com/) and learn, then come back here and show us what you learnt.

Thanks Rick. I think this is where I am heading next, learning about flash etc. It'll be a good way to add something new into what I am learning about the basics and stretch my knowledge/memory a bit.

[ricktas]

Thanks Rick. I think this is where I am heading next, learning about flash etc. It'll be a good way to add something new into what I am learning about the basics and stretch my knowledge/memory a bit.

We also have our own strobist forum, with plenty of info (but not as comprehensive as Strobist website) but our strobist forum can be used to ask questions, answer others questions, and slowly we can build our own lighting resource, right here on AP.

[danny]

I am trying to develop my skill in taking a multi shot panoramic photo. i have read through the threads here on AP and now need to get out and give it a go. It's the practical things like when people say to overlap the shots by 20-30%. How to set up on a tripod and the moving of the camera that I need to learn next.

Danny

[ricktas]

I am trying to develop my skill in taking a multi shot panoramic photo. i have read through the threads here on AP and now need to get out and give it a go. It's the practical things like when people say to overlap the shots by 20-30%. How to set up on a tripod and the moving of the camera that I need to learn next.

Danny

Couple of hints for you Danny,

1) Don't use a polariser (as you turn, your angle to the sun changes, and thus the strength of the polariser effect, and you end up with a dark blue/light blue striped sky).

2) Turn you camera on it's end. Shoot your pano frames in 'portrait' aspect. This give you more latitude, top to bottom, so that once your pano is stitched you can crop it and retain a lot more height in the end result.

[Papou]

The greatest learning tool at our fingertips nowadays is the PC,Internet & Google:). Type Histogrem for instance and peruse or read the variouse explanations regarding histograms and how to read the information they show. Light and the exposure triangle. Sunny 16 rule and how the exposure triangel falls in place with this at given lighting situations of the day and most of all go outside sit on your lawn with your camera and put it to pracrice with your particular camera and see how much leeeway either way with you camera's light meter and cameras histgram readout and you soon can look at a scene and know an emediate starting point for exposure given the the apparture you want to attain a certain depth of field.
Exposure Compensation in Av , shutter speed & Iso in manual etc..
Propably gone the long way around trying to answer the few questions i thought of starting point interest but its what ive been doing and still doing to try improve my Photography and i believe its helped .
As for Photshop?? or simmillar editing software??You do need one to get to open your Photos and edit them whether you shoot jpeg or raw..Shoot in raw which as advised is best way to go then you need a Raw editor within your software program though most software supplied with cameras nowadys will also read raw files. But there's a limit to the editing they can do.
What i will say though , if you learn to use your camera & learn exposure , as well as composition etc your editing time spent on a PC is greatly reduced with more pleasing results.
White balance was mentioned also and another area that need to be read up on and know how to set up within your own camera and understand what colour temperature /white balance is.
Think that was one of the first things i understood properly lol and found the easiest toset up mainly because i shuddered when the temp came out wrong :)..
Lastly being a memeber of a Photography site like this one for instance where you can ask what you cannot understand without fear and also putting up your Pics for C&C to help you get to the or a level you wish to achieve.
Mostly though its Practice, practice and more practice or playin with your camera and understanding what you do each time...
Ranted too much i suppose :) but my two bobs worth if its made sence at all??..

[cfm]

Couple of hints for you Danny,

2) Turn you camera on it's end. Shoot your pano frames in 'portrait' aspect. This give you more latitude, top to bottom, so that once your pano is stitched you can crop it and retain a lot more height in the end result.

Good tip on the portrait aspect, never thought of that! I will go home and try it out!

[Kym]

Luke ... Uee the force Library !! :D

http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showlibrary.php?title=Genre:Panorama_:_how_to_capture_and_process

[RedSky83]

Resisting the urge to buy more gear and learn to get better photos out of what I have :)

For me I'm trying to work on sharpness, which is involving experimenting with ISO and aperture mainly. I now shoot almost exclusively in AV mode, although I really don't stray from wide open for portraits and f8 for anything else. Swore off auto-ISO cause I wasn't happy with the grain in some of my 3200 shots but I've gone back to it since a lot of my shots were ending up with too slow a shutter speed.

The bullet list:

When to use what aperture
How to use exposure compensation to avoid slower shutter speeds
How to properly tweak colours in post without using presets

When I finally get around to picking up my speedlite, I'll add some strobist techniques to the list.

[cfm]

Like RedSky83, I am trying to work on sharpness. Most of my photos are hand-held, and pixel-peeping shows a reasonable degree of softness for some shots. So now I'm starting to investigate how sharp my zoom lenses are at different zoom levels/apertures, to find the "Sweet spots"

[JanisMay]

What I mostly need to learn is motivation. It seems to be lacking at the moment. However, just like RedSky83 and cfm, I too am trying to work on sharpness as I take almost all of my shots handheld. I like to photograph birds. Tough subject for a beginner I know but I am practising on my 2 new puppies (tough subjects as well). I have just bought a Canon 60D and a kit lens to use until I get a decent zoom lens. As I understand it a lot of people try to lean on something - a post, a wall, their car, to steady their shots. I also read a post by a gentleman who kneels and uses a monpod. There is so much great advice on this site. Trying to use this as my motivation and inspiration.
Janis
Canon 60D, 35-185mm Canon lens

[shakes]

I'm just starting to get a grasp of light metering, grey cards and histograms. And using them for what I think is known as high key or low key shots? In my searches there isn't many topics floating around.

More specifically a guide to buying light meters. Everywhere google takes me is weighted towards a specific brand.

[ricktas]

What I mostly need to learn is motivation. It seems to be lacking at the moment. However, just like RedSky83 and cfm, I too am trying to work on sharpness as I take almost all of my shots handheld. I like to photograph birds. Tough subject for a beginner I know but I am practising on my 2 new puppies (tough subjects as well). I have just bought a Canon 60D and a kit lens to use until I get a decent zoom lens. As I understand it a lot of people try to lean on something - a post, a wall, their car, to steady their shots. I also read a post by a gentleman who kneels and uses a monpod. There is so much great advice on this site. Trying to use this as my motivation and inspiration.
Janis
Canon 60D, 35-185mm Canon lens

Sharpness issues:

1. Shutter speed is generally the most common cause, to slow and you catch movement from the subject or movement from the camera during the exposure. This is THE most common cause of image blur for beginners.

2. Lenses, some lenses are just not that sharp anyway

3. Lenses and aperture. Most lenses have a 'sweet spot' where they are sharpest. This is usually around f8-f11, Lenses are often not that sharp wide open (f2.8 and f3..5 etc, or closed right down f22).

4. All digital photos need some sharpening in post processing to improve them, read THIS (http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?8579-Why-all-Digital-images-need-SHARPENING)

5. It is often noted that resizing photos (for the net etc) reduces their sharpness, it is worth considering resizing and then sharpening before uploading to the net, emailing to friends etc.

[ricktas]

I'm just starting to get a grasp of light metering, grey cards and histograms. And using them for what I think is known as high key or low key shots? In my searches there isn't many topics floating around.

More specifically a guide to buying light meters. Everywhere google takes me is weighted towards a specific brand.

Digital SLR's have a light meter built into them, use this! Just read up on how light meters work, and then make use of the one inside your DSLR. I have a light meter for film photography, but at times I have used my DSLR to meter a scene, and then use those settings for my film camera, it has been reliable, so I trust the light meter inside my DSLR's.

However, if you want an article on how light meters work , look here (http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm), as for a buying guide, it is really up to you to get an understanding of the features of light meters and then look at the different models and choose one with the features you want. I use a Sekonic!

[shakes]

Thanks Rick... Lots of usefull info through that link! The one little (major) bit that catches me, is where to meter the light from in various situations. Again aimed more towards high/low key stuff.

[Mark L]

What I mostly need to learn is motivation.

http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?90418-One-thing-one-week-136-%28yellow%29 :):)

[chezza]

a great resource here for beginners, answers and links to info... thankyou

[RachD]

I have A LOT to learn as a very new newbie.

I have taken a few workshops and have the basics under my belt but eager to learn more about using flash, night photography and post processing.
Lightroom and photoshop have been fun to use and I have been spending alot of time just playing around with them. If anyone could post some good tutorials that would be great!

[ricktas]

Rach, go to the LIBRARY, click on NEW TO PHOTOGRAPHY, for all the basics, otherwise their are tutorials and assistance all across the site, that is what it is here for.

[RachD]

Thank u :) I have just been reading the "new to photography" section.

It will certainly take me awhile to read but am finding some great tips

[Mark L]

............ If anyone could post some good tutorials that would be great!
You'll find some right here in AP (http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/forumdisplay.php?142-Photoshop-Tutorials)
And as time goes by you'll come across other references around here.