Please help me to choice a light meter

[andylo]

Hi all,

Got my extra flash, got a HiLite. I am looking into the Softbox/Umbella but also looking for a light meter.

I know pretty much everyone who use a light meter, use a Sekonic one.

But which model would be a better one?

I did some reseach re-compare different models.... except it confused me more.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/charts/sekonic_lightmeter_comp.html

Hopefully can get you insightful opinion here. Many thanks in advance.

[para]

I use the sekonic L-358 which does the job for me

[kiwi]

im not sure youll use it much personally

[Bear Dale]

sekonic L-358

[kiwi]

i have l-308s, works fine for when i use it

[andylo]

Not that much I would use it, it would be another additional "toy".... but if I am going to get one, I just prefer to get a proper one :)

So... L358? Why it is >L308? (apart from bigger model number :))

[Darey]

Sekonic L358 for ease of use and bang for bucks.
I also have the 1' NP Finder attachment (for spot reflected light readings) which I use for landscapes and I can't recommend it highly enough.
This light-meter is good in the studio and saves a lot of time chimping or guessing light set-ups.

[ricstew]

For your average Joe Blow ( me ) why do I need a light meter? Isn't there one in the camera? Shouldn't I trust it?
cheers
Jan

[I @ M]

For your average Joe Blow ( me ) why do I need a light meter? Isn't there one in the camera? Shouldn't I trust it?
cheers
Jan

Jan, if you are using off camera speedlights in manual mode or studio strobes the meter in the camera simply doesn't work as it is incapable of measuring the brief "flash" of light as it has nothing to measure until that "flash" happens and by then it is all too late.
The meter in your camera works perfectly with constant or ambient light and a separate light meter is used to measure the brief "flash" as it happens when using remote flashes / strobes and to disregard ambient light before actually taking a picture.

To put it simply, you would set your camera to "manual", select and set in the camera an ISO and shutter speed that you want to use and then input those two values into your light meter and then you would hold the light meter at the point on your subject that you want to measure the intensity of the light. You would then trigger your remote flashes and the light meter will display the correct aperture ( hopefully ) that is needed on your camera to expose that metered point on your subject correctly. You then set that aperture on the camera and take the picture with the remote flashes / strobes triggered at the shutter release of the camera. You can also decide what aperture that you want to use and set that on the camera and continue to measure your flash / strobe output whilst increasing or decreasing the amount of power form your flashes / strobes until the metered figure matches your desired aperture.

[reflect]

I too use the L-358 and have found that once I understood the basics ( I am not all that bright ) it is a tool that I use reasonably regularly.....sort of !

[andylo]

Thanks guys - will get a 358 then :D

[ricstew]

Hmmmm when I am using OC lights I just fiddle......chimp and check its what I want before I shoot anything important......I turn stuff up and down until its the look I am after lol. If its studio stuff I will check on the computer first.....

[mikec]

Jan, what I@M forgot to mention that while you use it to get your lights set correctly, it plays a very important role if are wanting to use lighting ratios. So if you want to do a true 2:1, 3:1, 4:1 etc.... Eg. on a two light setup you'd measure you fill light, then depending what ratio you'd want you then add the desired number of stops to your main light to get your fill + main to equal the correct out put you are after.

Eg. If you are doing a 3:1 your fill light could be set to read f/5.6 and 1/3 at the subject , then you'd set your main so you would read f/11 (1 and 2/3 stop more) for main + fill at the subject also, you'd then set your camera to f/11 and shoot.

[nightbringer]

If you have an iPhone, there is a free lightmeter app out, give that a try.

[andylo]

Hi nightbringer - tried that. It doesn't work that well.

I even go the extend to write my own Apple app to do that - but the programming frame work is rather limited on (iPhone) camera control. (Maybe I am just a sucky programmer :D)

[nightbringer]

Hmm, if that's the case then I should probably also consider getting a proper lightmeter should I decide I want to do more serious work with flash, like portrait or studio work.