help with manual settings - whats wrong!

[aurora]

Was working hard to get the water balloon burst shot. mostly taken 250, f5, tripod remained in same position, used remote shutter. I don't understand why.. if I don't move the tripod or the A does the DoF seem to change (look at the trees). And, forgot to say I am pretty sure the focus was on the balloon.

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab159/aurorapb/manual%20mode/burst.jpg
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab159/aurorapb/manual%20mode/burst2.jpg
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab159/aurorapb/manual%20mode/burst3.jpg

Any help appreciated

[MarkChap]

Don't understand what you mean by "didn't move the "A" "

I don't think your depth of field has changed at all, I think your focus point has changed, certainly in the last 2 focus is more on the trees than the balloon.
Did you achieve focus on the balloon and then switch to manual focus so that the camera did not try to re-focus as you pressed the remote release ?? I think that is your main problem.

Also what ISO were you using, I would up the ISO and probably open up to f4 to get a faster shutter speed.

[etherial]

What Mark said!

[William]

I'd pre focus on something about where the Balloon wil burst , As Mark said up the ISO to get the fast shutter speed , I'd be looking at 1/1000th of a sec to be sure , Maybe that might help

[ricktas]

I'd pre focus on something about where the Balloon wil burst , As Mark said up the ISO to get the fast shutter speed , I'd be looking at 1/1000th of a sec to be sure , Maybe that might help

what focus mode are you using. Not just AF or manual focusing, but single point, multi-point etc. When you pre-focus, if you are using autofocus you need to hold the shutter half way down to maintain that focus. As soon as you focus and let go, when you press the shutter (or remote release) button again, the camera will re-focus. I would suggest switching to 100% manua; focusing for this exercise.

[jjphoto]

Use manual exposure settings. Focus manually.

A higher shutter speed will probably help but if you are using flash then you might be stuck with 1/250 anyway. To add further confusion, flashes don't always freeze action either as many flashes have a relatively long pulse, sometimes as slow as 1/125th second at full power.

Any time you use any auto settings you are allowing the camera to be fooled by what it thinks is the correct setting, such as focusing on the trees in your example. You know that's the wrong focus point but how is the camera suposed to know? That's why it's often best to use manual settings unless there's a specific reason to use an Auto setting.

JJ

[James T]

Autofocus is fine if you have it set to back button focus, as using the cable release won't make the camera re-focus. If you have it on the shutter, then switch to manual as said.

The depth of field is similar in all of them, you've simply focussed on the trees in the later shots. Easy to tell because the trees are sharper than the water, if it was the depth of field increasing from the water backward, then the water would still be sharper than the trees.

If you want to freeze the action, shoot with flash. Shoot later / indoors when it's darker, this will allow you to use the flash on a lower power (lower power = shorter flash duration = sharper image). The problem you'll find will be timing, it can be done by hand if you're just experimenting but if you want to get consistent results then sound activated triggers are usually the route people go down (really cheap off Ebay and the like).

[William]

I'd pre focus on something about where the Balloon wil burst , As Mark said up the ISO to get the fast shutter speed , I'd be looking at 1/1000th of a sec to be sure , Maybe that might help

Sorry , I should have said Pre-Focus on something , Once you've got focus , Switch the lens to manual Focus , Have fun exprimenting - Bill :)

[Big Pix]

....... the balloon moved not your point of focus....... you also need a higher shutter speed so increase your ISO to say 500, this will help, and shoot on manual......

the small square inside the camera viewer must be on your point of focus, if this moves, the camera will focus on the background, so shoot all manual.......

if the balloon moves how are you going to focus ?

The balloon must be secure top and bottom to reduce movement when punctured. You should get the desired effect

[aurora]

Thanks everyone for the comments, they have been very helpful. I will try again. I didn't use a flash, just relied on the daylight. From what everyone has said I need to switch to manual mode (I had it on AF) and I need to up the ISO. I am starting to 'get it'. I realise that I also had the camera on continuous shooting and it was probably trying to refocus between each shot (just guessing this, I'll have to check the manual to see if it does this or if it just focus on the first shot and continues?).

Will get out the balloons tomorrow morning when the light is good. :th3:

[James T]

If you don't have a flash. Try to find somewhere with strong directional light, ie from the side. This should give you a decent shutter speed (still not fast enough to truly 'freeze' the water though) and afford you some separation from a darker, less distracting background. :th3:

[itybitypieces]

just had a look at your exif data for your photos, couldnt get the data for the first shot but photo #2 is 1/200th of a sec with f/5 ISO of 200 photo #3 is 1/250th of a sec with f/6.3 and ISO of 200

[aurora]

just had a look at your exif data for your photos, couldnt get the data for the first shot but photo #2 is 1/200th of a sec with f/5 ISO of 200 photo #3 is 1/250th of a sec with f/6.3 and ISO of 200

Thanks itybity... but...are you saying speed is to slow, and iso needs to be up???

[itybitypieces]

i think yes you do need a faster shutter speed