flashpixx
09-11-2010, 4:59pm
Just acquired a Nikon 200-400 lens. It's big, it's heavy and for extended use it needs support. I have until now shied away from using monopods particularly as they restrict movement, both while shooting, but also moving about the track (I shoot motorsport). With the 200-400 there is little choice :(
Have done some research on the best way to get consistent sharp images from a long lens mounted on a monopod. The following is what I have discovered, hope it is of use to someone. Feel free to add to it.
1. Support: a long lens needs a suitable solid support. This is both the monopod and the head. Solid monopod head choices are somewhat limited. I have a mafrotto 232 which is a light (2.5kg capacity) tilt head on a 679B monopod. The head is not suitable at all, and the monopod, while rated to 10kg, does flex abit under the load. Options are Gitzo (http://www.qualitycamera.com.au/gitzo-m-65.html)monopods, tho I think a Manfrotto 681B might be OK. For a head, short of a Wimberley set up on a tripod, Really Right Stuff (http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=MH01&key=cat)make a range of monopod heads that are highly regarded.
2. Correct use of the long lens on a monopod (known as Long Tens Technique or LLT) is critical for consistent results. The best reference in a single artice is by Moose Peterson (http://www.moosepeterson.com/blog/?p=7257)
I've been practising this technique and have found it to improve the keeper rate, but isn't easy to master.
3. Finally I've purchased a Hoodman (http://hoodmanusa.com/products.asp?dept=1061) eyecup for pressing my eye to the camera as without it, it becomes very difficult (plus it hurts after a while!).
I've removed the head from the monopod all together and just screw it directly to the foot of the lens. The EOM lens foot did flex a little too so I've replaced it with a Wimberley (http://www.tripodhead.com/products/replacement-feet-main.cfm) foot. A further advantage with the Wimberley foot is that it has a smaller gap between the foot plate and the lens so I can operate the zoom comfortably.
Have done some research on the best way to get consistent sharp images from a long lens mounted on a monopod. The following is what I have discovered, hope it is of use to someone. Feel free to add to it.
1. Support: a long lens needs a suitable solid support. This is both the monopod and the head. Solid monopod head choices are somewhat limited. I have a mafrotto 232 which is a light (2.5kg capacity) tilt head on a 679B monopod. The head is not suitable at all, and the monopod, while rated to 10kg, does flex abit under the load. Options are Gitzo (http://www.qualitycamera.com.au/gitzo-m-65.html)monopods, tho I think a Manfrotto 681B might be OK. For a head, short of a Wimberley set up on a tripod, Really Right Stuff (http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=MH01&key=cat)make a range of monopod heads that are highly regarded.
2. Correct use of the long lens on a monopod (known as Long Tens Technique or LLT) is critical for consistent results. The best reference in a single artice is by Moose Peterson (http://www.moosepeterson.com/blog/?p=7257)
I've been practising this technique and have found it to improve the keeper rate, but isn't easy to master.
3. Finally I've purchased a Hoodman (http://hoodmanusa.com/products.asp?dept=1061) eyecup for pressing my eye to the camera as without it, it becomes very difficult (plus it hurts after a while!).
I've removed the head from the monopod all together and just screw it directly to the foot of the lens. The EOM lens foot did flex a little too so I've replaced it with a Wimberley (http://www.tripodhead.com/products/replacement-feet-main.cfm) foot. A further advantage with the Wimberley foot is that it has a smaller gap between the foot plate and the lens so I can operate the zoom comfortably.