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eskp
19-02-2010, 10:50am
Hi,

I'm looking for some advice re: strobe heads. I shoot bball and other indoor sports using the following settings 1/640th @ f2.8 ISO 1250. The combination of stadium lighting as well as decent camera bodies allows these settings and the results are satisfactory. I'm looking at shooting in stadiums with less than optimal lighting and need to supplement with suitable strobes.

I'm looking for advice from anyone that has accomplished this. Specifically interested in strobes that can handle the pace of image bursts up to 12, so recycle time and flash duration to allow capture at 1/640th or better at the aperture mentioned above, are critical. I'll be triggering with PW so the strobes need PC sync cord capability.

Any advice welcome.

stevedavies500
19-02-2010, 12:55pm
Not sure of this but if you are using a strobe with a PC sync cord......will your camera sync above 1/250th

kiwi
19-02-2010, 1:10pm
Think that won't be any here that can help here mate, still reckon the guys on the Cafe are the ones to ask

Some use akienbees, some use speedlightd

eskp
19-02-2010, 1:38pm
Hi Darren,
It was worth a try.. I have had several conversations with pro lighting vendors...that can provide the gear but at a significant cost..circa $7k per head.. which is way beyond what I was looking to spend..

kiwi
19-02-2010, 1:40pm
D3s would be cheaper

eskp
19-02-2010, 1:43pm
Hi Steve,

The pc sync cord is not plugged into my camera body. It is plugged into a PocketWizard transceiver (in receive mode) that is triggered by the transciever on my camera (in transmit mode).
My camera's sync at 1/320th but regardless of this, I would use the strobes to provide enough light to allow as close as possible sync with 1/640th shutter speed.

eskp
19-02-2010, 1:54pm
I'm using a D3 and D700 - they're both great but the 'dungeons' I have to shoot in show no mercy on these bodies.. The D3s won't add anything else because I won't shoot above 3200 anyway.

ehor
22-02-2010, 11:01am
Looking a big $$$ for motion stopping studio strobes.

kiwi
22-02-2010, 2:12pm
Have you just considered a few sb900s with pw or su800 or both?

Brodie
22-02-2010, 6:16pm
Youd be amazed at what your SB900's are capable of here. Definitely capable of shooting indoor sports like basketball etc. Setup an SB900 on either side of the court aimed down towards the basket. Maybe a third one down at the basket end.
Id highly recommend a manual setting. You can feather the light with the strobes so you can maximise the area your subject will be exposed properly. I can explain that it if you need me to.

In order to keep up with your burst mode shooting, you will need the external battery packs for your flash. These battery units pack a whole lot more charge and will have your 900 recycling quick-smart. They will also last a lot longer. When you use these external battery packs you can burn out your flash if you go spastic with your trigger finger. So just be wary of that, but dont be turned away by that fact. You can still go pretty hard. Do a google for them.

Obviously your 900's are easily hooked up to a pocket wizard.

you can use SB800 as well.

You will probably want to pop some gels on your flashes and set your whitebalance to accomodate for whatever lighting the gym already has. Usually fluourescent.

So now your using flash, you dont need the 1/800+ shutter speeds, you can rely on the flashes freezing your subject a bit more. If you drag your shutter a bit (slow it down) and set your flashes to second curtain sync, you can get some cool effects!


NOTE: I use the term strobe/flash/light interchangeably. they all refer to an SB900 in this post.

photodude
13-03-2010, 6:33pm
what about some speedlights set up with pocket wizards?
being wizards are ettl you ll still get the faster shutter speeds

mikec
14-03-2010, 11:56am
Have a look at these links from strobist, probably useful.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/02/on-assignment-speedlighting-college-gym.html

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/03/q-speedlighting-gym.html

The Moose
18-03-2010, 9:41pm
With powerful flashes, you wouldn't need to shoot at 1/640. 1/250 would be fine. I've seen people use AB's plugged into the wall with good results. I'm not sure you'd get a 12 shot burst though. In reality, it's not really needed. Once you get a good setup going with the lights, you'll get more keepers and you'll need to shoot less.