101 Photography Tips

[edenconnell]

Hi Guys,

I hopefully I learn something really useful and this thread can help beginners like me to learn a few things.

Please help get it to 101 tips (yes we have 101 and more.... edited)

Consolidated list...


Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
Take the lens cap off doofus!
Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
Learn and understand "depth of field"
When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
Get down to children's height to take photo
Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
Learn to use exposure compensation (+/-Ev) and handle the highlights better
Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
Always look back before you leave.
For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS/VR/SR/OS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
When shooting night photography, generally use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
Enjoy what you do.
As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
Have a simple clear subject for your image
Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
Bring an extra memory card
Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, pre-visualise the shot, set you focal length on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
Study different subject's luminance.
If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualising the frame lines.
Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.
You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them
keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there
when photographing a sunset, always look behind you
never leave home without a camera
the best camera is the ones that's with you. (thanks Chase)
Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.
Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79
When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.
Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.
Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!
When you go out to shoot have in mind what you want to come back with and you'd be surprised how often you do.
When doing portraits NEVER ask your subject to smile. They either smile naturally or not at all.
When shooting sport get the face in the shot. If it's a ball sport get the ball in the shot.
Keep your shutter speed at 1/100s + 1/focal length for sharp shots. It's easier to fix noise caused by a higher ISO than to fix motion blur caused by a too low a shutter speed
If you have a fast lens, e.g. f/2.8, don;t always shoot at 2.8. Shoot for the background separation you need. Most lenses are not at their peak wide open.
Use condoms to cover your speedlights in the wet
Before cleaning your lens with a micro-fibre cloth ensure that there is no grit on the lens or on the cloth
Use TTl-BL always if you use Nikon CLS.
Do not delete images off your CF card until you have two other copies stored
When taking landscapes be cognisant of the foreground the middle-ground and the background
Always use flash off camera and bounce the light if you can
When swapping lenses make sure you don't allow dust to get in. Is it windy? Drizzling? Seek protection from adverse conditions before you begin swapping.
If you can't afford to replace your gear make sure you insure it as an extra on your house insurance! It may be cheaper than you think and worth the peace of mind!
Memory cards:
Don't touch the exposed gold contacts on the card
Don't fill the card to full capacity, it may cause errors
Keep spare cards in their protective cases, not loose in pockets etc
Save images to computer and backup as soon as possible (and create a backup DVD copy for those really important images)
NEVER EVER remove the card from a camera before turning off the camera! This is a great way to not only lose your images but to literally destroy the card
If you do get an error and/or lose images, STOP! do absolutely nothing before taking the card to a camera store (or use special recovery software yourself). Image recovery software can recover files, even after formatting has taken place. DO NOT TAKE MORE IMAGES!
Use a card reader to down load your photos to the computer, don't down load straight from your camera.
(This one is debatable, but do ensure the battery on your camera is charged if you direct connect)

Lighting is critical when taking photographs. Always think about the amount of light on and around the subject.
Harsh Sunlight can throw heavy shadows, taking away colour and detail. Cloud cover can help with more even light for your photos.
Camera Shake: The slightest movement while taking a picture can lead to camera shake. Find out more about what causes this problem, and how to avoid it.
Landscape: Get Down: Avoid head-height perspective that we are all use by default. Get low to the ground can radically improve perspective and make the image zing.
Landscape: Tilt Forward: Improve the impact of your immediate location by tilting your camera forward and focusing on what's immediately in front of you; keeping the rest of the scene in frame
Landscape: Contrast: Look for a good dynamic range (lots of contrast) and maybe consider HDR processing to keep details (without overcooking it)

[Miaow]

ok ill add one to this since I've been caught out :D

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment

[MarkChap]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer

[ricktas]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.

[ving]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!

[Lani]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect. :D

[Kym]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect. :D
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially color negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.

(Great thread!)

[MarkW]

ake photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect. :D
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially color negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action that's moving across the frame perpendicular to the lens axis, you need a shutter speed two-stops faster than if the same action was moving toward (or away) from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one-stop slower. Example: If the action of a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/250, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/1000 to stop the same subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/125 to stop action if they are moving diagonally with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!

[rossco]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially color negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action that's moving across the frame perpendicular to the lens axis, you need a shutter speed two-stops faster than if the same action was moving toward (or away) from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one-stop slower. Example: If the action of a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/250, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/1000 to stop the same subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/125 to stop action if they are moving diagonally with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"

[MrJorge]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially color negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action that's moving across the frame perpendicular to the lens axis, you need a shutter speed two-stops faster than if the same action was moving toward (or away) from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one-stop slower. Example: If the action of a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/250, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/1000 to stop the same subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/125 to stop action if they are moving diagonally with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.

[ving]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially color negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action that's moving across the frame perpendicular to the lens axis, you need a shutter speed two-stops faster than if the same action was moving toward (or away) from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one-stop slower. Example: If the action of a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/250, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/1000 to stop the same subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/125 to stop action if they are moving diagonally with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. dont be afraid of a litle fill flash to expose shadowed areas.

[Jimbo]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.

[Miaow]

I was chatting to my bf about this and I have done this one im adding myself lol

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot

[edenconnell]

Guys this is great so far!

I think we can get to 101.....

[NickMonk]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before

[clm738]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo

[kaiser]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesnt suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.

[Kym]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better

[Darey]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.

[ricktas]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.

[DzRbenson]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes

[wideangle]

25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot

[Helen S]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.

[farmer_rob]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.

[clm738]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
__________________

[Seesee]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.

[bundabergsangel]

This is a good idea so I thought I might try to revive it!

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).

[clm738]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.

[Hobberz]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Dont be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.

[edenconnell]

We are nearly 1/2 way there thanks for your input guys!!!!!!!!!!

[Viper]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Dont be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.

[bigdazzler]

43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise

[Kym]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.

[MarkChap]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.

[[ kane ]]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.

[NonComposMentis]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.

[Kym]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.

[Dylan & Marianne]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.

[Brian S R]

55. Bring an extra memory card

[TOM]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.

[TOM]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect :) .

[Krzys]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited

[KeithD]

Thank you all ,great advise , can't wait for full list will print it off and review often , this is the best site for people like me who are new to photography.
Cheers KeithD.

[Lynden]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
64. Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else.

Regards, Lynden

[jeffde]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
64. Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
65. For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….

[stark]

Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.

[stark]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
64. Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
65. For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
66. Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.

[maccaroneski]

67. You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them

[ckhidding]

68. keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there

[jprobertson]

69. when photographin a sunset, always look behind you
70. never leave home without a camera
71. the best camera is the ones thats with you. (thanks Chase)

[OGJON]

72. Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
73. make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
75. Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera

[gh0st]

72. Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
73. make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
75. Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.

76. Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
77. Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
78. If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
79. Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
80. Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79 :)
81. When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
82. If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.

[phild]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Dont be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.

[olympuse620]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Dont be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door

[rellik666]

72. Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
73. make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
75. Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.

76. Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
77. Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
78. If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
79. Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
80. Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79 :)
81. When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
82. If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.

83. Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
84. Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.

85. Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!

[kiwi]

86. Only buy Nikon
87. See rule 86

:)

[peterking]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
64. Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
65. For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
66. Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.
67. You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them
68. keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there
69. when photographin a sunset, always look behind you
70. never leave home without a camera
71. the best camera is the ones thats with you. (thanks Chase)
72. Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
73. make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
75. Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.
76. Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
77. Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
78. If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
79. Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
80. Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79
81. When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
82. If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.
83. Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
84. Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.
85. Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!
86. (Sorry Kiwi but bad advice is not a good idea!) When you go out to shoot have in mind what you want to come back with and you'd be surprised how often you do.

[kiwi]

87. When doing portraits NEVER ask your subject to smile. They either smile naturally or not at all.

[peterking]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
64. Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
65. For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
66. Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.
67. You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them
68. keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there
69. when photographin a sunset, always look behind you
70. never leave home without a camera
71. the best camera is the ones thats with you. (thanks Chase)
72. Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
73. make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
75. Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.
76. Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
77. Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
78. If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
79. Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
80. Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79
81. When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
82. If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.
83. Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
84. Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.
85. Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!
86. (Sorry Kiwi but bad advice is not a good idea!) When you go out to shoot have in mind what you want to come back with and you'd be surprised how often you do.
87. When doing portraits NEVER ask your subject to smile. They either smile naturally or not at all.
88. When shhoting sport get the face in the shot. If it's a ball sport get the ball in the shot.

[kiwi]

1. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. Take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
42. Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
44. Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
45. THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
46. When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
47. Enjoy what you do.
48. As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
49. Have a simple clear subject for your image
50. Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
51. The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
52. Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
53. A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
54. Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
55. Bring an extra memory card
56.Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, previsualise the shot, set you focal lenght on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
57.If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
58.Study different subject's luminance.
59.If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
60.Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
61.Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
62.For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualizing the frame lines.
63.Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
64. Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
65. For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
66. Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.
67. You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them
68. keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there
69. when photographin a sunset, always look behind you
70. never leave home without a camera
71. the best camera is the ones thats with you. (thanks Chase)
72. Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
73. make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
75. Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.
76. Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
77. Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
78. If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
79. Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
80. Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79
81. When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
82. If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.
83. Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
84. Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.
85. Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!
86. When you go out to shoot have in mind what you want to come back with and you'd be surprised how often you do.
87. When doing portraits NEVER ask your subject to smile. They either smile naturally or not at all.
88. When shooting sport get the face in the shot. If it's a ball sport get the ball in the shot.
89. Keep your shutter speed at 1/100s + 1/focal length for sharp shots. It's easier to fix noise caused by a higher ISO than to fix motion blur caused by a too low a shutter speed
90. If you have a fast lens, eg F/2.8, don;t always shoot at 2.8. Shoot for the background seperation you need. Most lenses are not at their peak wide open.
91. Use condoms to cover your speedlights in the wet
92. Before cleaning your lens with a microfibre cloth ensure that there is no grit on the lens or on the cloth
93. Use TTl-BL always if you use Nikon CLS.
94. Do not delete images off your CF card until you have two other copies stored
95. When taking landscapes be cogniscent of the foreground the middleground and the background
96. Always use flash off camera and bounce the light if you can

[Fabz]

97. When swapping lenses make sure you don't allow dust to get in. Is it windy? Drizzling? Seek protection from adverse conditions before you begin swapping.

[Jeanette]

oh wow this is awesome .. thanks from a fairly new owner of a DSLR.. i am learning sooo much on my first day .. i love the seriousness and adore the humour...
and pleased to say I am doing some of the above already... and will do some others from now on.
grins at the turn camera on . ( woops yes i have done that )
and I have found a few of my favourite photos are ones I nearly deleted on the camera.. SOooo pleased I used the computer first.
maybe soon i can add one of the advises here :)

[rellik666]

98. If you can't afford to replace your gear make sure you insure it as an extra on your house insurance! It may be cheaper than you think and worth the peace of mind!

[Jeanette]

aww as i am reading through i am thinking of 2 things to say ... and jproberston put them in :)
dont leave home with out your camera and if you are seing a wonderfully coloured sunset look at what it is hitting behind you .. often they make amazing photos too :) ... oh this post is wonderful i just love it

[James T]

Just had a flick through the thread, some good points for people starting out to take on board. A few issues I spotted though:

21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better

Ev and exposure compensation are two different things. Although related in a way.


24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes

Always is a bit of a strong word in photography I think. If you're going to focus on the eyes, focus on them, not on the bridge of your subject's nose. ;) Don't be afraid to focus elsewhere though, after all, we don't want everyone doing the same thing all the time do we.


43. When shooting night photography, ALWAYS use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise

There's that always word again. Use the ISO that gives you the shutter and aperture that you need for the shot, they are more important than the ISO. To reduce noise, use the native ISO of your camera, which is often not the lowest. (In some cases the native isn't the cleanest either, there are heaps of fancy tests out there showing what's what for different cameras, though it's really not that important).


66. Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.

Learning to use your in camera meter correctly is going to be quicker and more appropriate in most general shooting isn't it? Failing that though, learn to use your eyes, and don't bother with either. ;)


74. When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.

You'll miss too many shots (depends what you're doing I suppose). Shoot first, ask questions later (or don't).

[Kym]

Good clarification!

21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
Ev and exposure compensation are two different things. Although related in a way.

Most cameras are marked with +/- Ev and the manual's refer to it as Ev.
Yes, Ev is a static scale of exposure, but in common use it means setting an offset to the camera computed exposure.
NTP write up here http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?p=447813

[Kym]

99. Memory cards:
a) Don't touch the exposed gold contacts on the card
b) Don't fill the card to full capacity, it may cause errors
c) Keep spare cards in their protective cases, not loose in pockets etc
d) Save images to computer and backup as soon as possible (and create a backup DVD copy for those really important images)
e) NEVER EVER remove the card from a camera before turning off the camera! This is a great way to not only lose your images but to literally destroy the card
f) If you do get an error and/or lose images, STOP! do absolutely nothing before taking the card to a camera store (or use special recovery software yourself). Image recovery software can recover files, even after formatting has taken place. DO NOT TAKE MORE IMAGES!

[mish13]

100. Use a card reader to down load your photos to the computer, don't down load straight from your camera.

[Kym]

Consolidated and we have 101!


Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
Take the lens cap off doofus!
Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
Learn and understand "depth of field"
When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
Get down to children's height to take photo
Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
Learn to use exposure compensation (+/-Ev) and handle the highlights better
Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
Always look back before you leave.
For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS/VR/SR/OS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
When shooting night photography, generally use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
Enjoy what you do.
As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
Have a simple clear subject for your image
Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fisheye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
Bring an extra memory card
Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, pre-visualise the shot, set you focal length on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
Study different subject's luminance.
If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
Learn when to use hyperfocal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and differnent scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualising the frame lines.
Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.
You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them
keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there
when photographing a sunset, always look behind you
never leave home without a camera
the best camera is the ones that's with you. (thanks Chase)
Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.
Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infrared and try new way of taking pictures.
Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79
When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.
Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.
Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!
When you go out to shoot have in mind what you want to come back with and you'd be surprised how often you do.
When doing portraits NEVER ask your subject to smile. They either smile naturally or not at all.
When shooting sport get the face in the shot. If it's a ball sport get the ball in the shot.
Keep your shutter speed at 1/100s + 1/focal length for sharp shots. It's easier to fix noise caused by a higher ISO than to fix motion blur caused by a too low a shutter speed
If you have a fast lens, e.g. f/2.8, don;t always shoot at 2.8. Shoot for the background separation you need. Most lenses are not at their peak wide open.
Use condoms to cover your speedlights in the wet
Before cleaning your lens with a micro-fibre cloth ensure that there is no grit on the lens or on the cloth
Use TTl-BL always if you use Nikon CLS.
Do not delete images off your CF card until you have two other copies stored
When taking landscapes be cognisant of the foreground the middle-ground and the background
Always use flash off camera and bounce the light if you can
When swapping lenses make sure you don't allow dust to get in. Is it windy? Drizzling? Seek protection from adverse conditions before you begin swapping.
If you can't afford to replace your gear make sure you insure it as an extra on your house insurance! It may be cheaper than you think and worth the peace of mind!
Memory cards:
Don't touch the exposed gold contacts on the card
Don't fill the card to full capacity, it may cause errors
Keep spare cards in their protective cases, not loose in pockets etc
Save images to computer and backup as soon as possible (and create a backup DVD copy for those really important images)
NEVER EVER remove the card from a camera before turning off the camera! This is a great way to not only lose your images but to literally destroy the card
If you do get an error and/or lose images, STOP! do absolutely nothing before taking the card to a camera store (or use special recovery software yourself). Image recovery software can recover files, even after formatting has taken place. DO NOT TAKE MORE IMAGES!
Use a card reader to down load your photos to the computer, don't down load straight from your camera.
(This one is debatable, but do ensure the battery on your camera is charged if you direct connect)

Lighting is critical when taking photographs. Always think about the amount of light on and around the subject.
Harsh Sunlight can throw heavy shadows, taking away colour and detail. Cloud cover can help with more even light for your photos.

[Jeanette]

"100. Use a card reader to down load your photos to the computer, don't down load straight from your camera."


may i ask why for this one ... might be a silly question but I am silly enough to ask :)

[Nige]

removed....already reached 101.

[mish13]

I did answer you but that was deleted along with my post for number 100?

[Kym]

We can go over 101... We cleaned up some posts that were debating things and getting OT.
I cleaned up and consolidated a few as well.

Keep em coming...

[Kym]

"100. Use a card reader to down load your photos to the computer, don't down load straight from your camera."
may i ask why for this one ... might be a silly question but I am silly enough to ask :)

Now 99 g as it was directly card related. (consolidation process)
It is suspect, the only chance of issues is if your camera goes flat while transferring files.
And as you are normally reading files the chance of problems is near zero.

[Jeanette]

Question about #91 just wondering who has done this .. and is there photographic evidence :)
before i go and try it and someone says " this was a gotcha " :D

[babybear]

. Take photos early morning or night as there as less shadows
2. Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
3. Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
4. Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
5. take the lens cap off doofus!
6. Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
7. Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
8. Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
9. The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
10. To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
11. Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
12. Learn and understand "depth of field"
13. When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
14. dont be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
15. Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
16. Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
17. When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
18. Get down to children's height to take photo
19. Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
20. Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
21. Learn to use exposure compensation (Ev) and handle the highlights better
22. Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
23. Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
24. For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
25. always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
26. When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
28. DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
29. Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
30. Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
31. Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
32. Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
33. Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
34. Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
35. Always look back before you leave.
36. For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
37. When do Pano's use a tripod and turn IS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
38. Dont be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
39. Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So dont choose the keepers untill you veiw them on the computer.
40. Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
41. Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process
42. Always format your cards so that they are ready and not filled with unnessary stuff

[Catalin]

Great thread. Many things to learn and keep in mind. Thank you all for this excellent list

[broomage]

great tips - thanks!

[PJI254]

#??. Never take your card out of the camera while it is switched on - you may loose everything!

[abbyp]

98. If you can't afford to replace your gear make sure you insure it as an extra on your house insurance! It may be cheaper than you think and worth the peace of mind!

Good thing you mentioned this. I'm going to a rock festival and I plan on taking some shots. I think I am going to need this.

[AVALANCHE]

Although I am new (6 months in) here is my two cents:

Extra) Don't feel disheartened if you are on a budget when buying a first camera. The type of the camera you use has little to do with actual photography itself. Understanding the principles of design (line, shape, tone, texture, colour) and seeing light, as well as understanding composition to create a compelling image are far more important than worrying about whether or not you have the latest and most expensive camera. The only people that recommend these expensive cameras to beginners (ie - 5D mk3/D800 etc) are salespeople or those that have been sucked in by those same salespeople. More resolution/pixels doesn't equal sharper images, holding your camera still does.

Extra) Pay attention to the background of your images.

Extra) Carry one to three lenses with you when you go out. Preferrably one and that being a fixed lens. This will strengthen your composition qualities as you will be forced to move forward or back to compose your subject in the frame, therefore developing a feel for photos without even having to look through the viewfinder as you can eventually visualise in your mind how the photo will look!

[Kym]

Consolidated list...


Take photos early morning or night as there as less hard shadows
Always make sure your battery is recharged (or you have spare batteries) so your camera doesn't suddenly die on you at the worst possible moment
Get closer - if you can't get closer zoom in further, if you can't zoom in get closer
Learn to use the histogram to adjust settings and get a good exposure.
Take the lens cap off doofus!
Check that your camera is not set to auto ISO,(unless you definitely want it to be) learned this the hard way.... as have many others, I expect.
Starting guide for obtaining a proper exposure of a full moon is to the aperture at f/11 and shutter speed at one over the ISO setting (eg. 1/125 for ISO 100). For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8. For a quarter moon, f/5.6.
Lenses and cameras never used to have anti-shake systems built into them. As shutter speeds got slower, camera shake was likely to blur your image, and you had to know what you could safely get away with! As a rule-of-thumb, the slowest shutter speed at which you could safely handhold a camera was usually considered to be one over the focal length of the lens. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, you could generally shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. A 100mm lens needed at least 1/125 sec; 1/300 for 300mm and so forth. Not enough light to do that? Then you had to use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially colour negative film, you're actually better off overexposing by one stop.
To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.
Before you ask the question - READ THE MANUAL!!
Learn and understand "depth of field"
When taking your camera out for the first time since a previous shoot verify all your settings are what you want for this new shoot so you don't use the previous shoot settings which may be wildly inappropriate.
Don't be afraid of a little fill flash to expose shadowed areas.
Learn and understand the interrelationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
Make sure the camera is on when you go to take a shot
When at a famous landmark, look for the angle you've never seen in another photo before
Get down to children's height to take photo
Know your equipment - to the point where it becomes second nature. The less you have to muck around in menus and think about settings, the more time you can spend on the much more important aspects of timing, lighting and composition. You will always be wanting a new lens, a new body etc. - working with what you have will force you to be more creative.
Start shooting raw and learn about white balance
Learn to use exposure compensation (+/-Ev) and handle the highlights better
Keep it simple, in photography less equals more.
Always put your camera on full auto when storing it, travelling etc. You never know when a great shot might present itself, and in Auto you can grab the camera and get the shot off. That elusive shot of a Yeti, will be just a blur if you still had it set to 10 second shutter speed from the night landscapes from yesterday.
For portraits of children always spot focus right between the eyes
always have your camera and tripod by your side as you never know when the opportunity moment will arise to get THE shot
When doing portrait shots of man's best friend (the dog) always focus on the eyes... a focused nose and blurry eyes just look silly.
Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.
DOF - Small number-small DOF. Large number-big DOF.
Never pack your camera gear away in a wet or damp condition.
Always double check your bag zippers/fasteners are closed before picking it up.
Always turn off camera before changing lenses.
Try to avoid changing lenses in wet or dusty conditions.
Never hard scrub the glass on your lenses to clean, especially true for the sensor.
Be Quiet. Some of the best shots happen when the subject doesn't know you're there (kids, animals, etc).
Always look back before you leave.
For long exposure remember to use a tripod, a remote also helps to stop from camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
When doing Pano's use a tripod and turn IS/VR/SR/OS OFF, IS can sometimes go crazy and cause a soft blurry image.
Don't be shy to experiment, take lots of photos of the same thing with different angles and camera settings.
Some images may look crappy in the playback mode on your camera, but might look good on the computer at home. So don't choose the keepers until you view them on the computer.
Never point or look through your lens directly at the sun.
Always try and have your horizons straight in your photos, or straighten them in the editing process.
Never use cheap filters in front of expensive glass.
When shooting night photography, generally use the lowest ISO to avoid/reduce digital noise
Learn the Sunny 16 rule - it helps understanding exposure
THINK! before you shoot. I.e. exposure, DoF, ISO, camera settings, composure etc.
When shooting portraits, be aware of poles/plants/projections growing from the head of your subject.
Enjoy what you do.
As much as the rule of thirds is important and one should keep that in mind when composing, remember that rules are meant to be broken.
Have a simple clear subject for your image
Using the natural surroundings to frame your composure can add more meaning and focus to your main subject. We can use almost anything as a frame, eg. tree branches, bushes, archways, tall buildings and doorways. Keep the focus on the main subject, and use a high f/stop when you need more depth of field.
The ‘keep it simple silly’ rule is just what it says. You should keep your composition relatively simple. If you have zoomed in close to your main subject, use appropriate Depth of Field to make the background out of focus, or make sure that nothing in the background interferes with the main subject, thus removing any distractions. This stops unwanted elements pulling the viewers eye away from the main subject.
Use leading lines to draw the viewer's eye through the photograph. This is an especially powerful technique to draw the viewer's attention to one or more intended subjects or a single focal point. Please be careful when using leading lines, make sure the lines don’t distract the viewer or lead them away from the main subject. The use of roads, water courses, fences, walls etc. can be useful as leading lines.
A different angle or perspective can often add impact to a photograph. Think lines, angles and height. Try crouching down, kneeling , climbing up higher, moving to the left or right. Better still, try to take a photo from a different angle, through a window, doorway, or an archway. Experiment with lenses. You could even invest in a fish-eye lens, which will give you a whole new perspective on everything.
Patience. It's better to consider a composition thoroughly (and technical aspects ) and take a single set of good images rather than take a scatter gun approach and shoot anything and everything in the area.
Bring an extra memory card
Never stand in the one spot and compose by zooming in and out. Learn what different focal lengths look like, pre-visualise the shot, set you focal length on your lens (or change to a different prime lens if required), then compose your shot by moving closer or further away from your subject.
If you are using a light meter built into your camera (reflective light meter), learn how it is calibrated and why there is a need to adjust for subjects with different reflectance/luminance.
Study different subject's luminance.
If you have a camera with a mirror, and the situation permits, always lock it up to reduce vibration. This should result in sharper images.
Learn when to use hyper-focal focusing or infinity focusing if shooting landscapes. The two techniques will produce different results, and different scenes may suit one technique more than the other.
Keep your lens hood on all the time, and use your lens cap whenever not shooting. These two things will offer the best protection for your lens. The lens hood can also help with flare and veiling flare, and can also provide more contrast to your images. Shooting with your lens cap attached will make your lens almost flare proof, although underexposure is a common side effect
For success with candid photos learn to shoot from the hip and see with your hands, visualising the frame lines.
Zone focus your camera using a small aperture and the depth of field scale on your lens (if it has one) if you are in a situation where preparation time for a photo is limited
Sharpness ... learn to breath correctly and hold camera steady for hand held shots and use a shutter cable and tripod for everything else
For portraiture - With people -If it bends bend it….
Learn to use a real light meter and don't rely too heavily on the camera's light metering.
You can preview white balance settings in live view mode (or at least you can with my Nikon), i.e. without taking a shot and just scrolling through them
keep both eyes open ..you never know what you are missing just over there
when photographing a sunset, always look behind you
never leave home without a camera
the best camera is the ones that's with you. (thanks Chase)
Keep your camera & lenses clean & dry.
make sure all your batteries are always full charged(including spares)
When taking pix of strangers where you will have their face in the pic always be friendly & ask permission.
Always put your lenses back into their bag/case when you take them off the camera.
Learn the zone system and the spot metering.
Use zip-lock bags when changing temperature/humidity conditions (like leaving hotel room in hot weather outside or coming back from shooting in winter).
If you have an old camera, do not throw it away, convert it to infra-red and try new way of taking pictures.
Do not make photos just to please others, please yourself first.
Whatever you do, there will be as many critics as supporters, so follow rule 79
When shooting stills use life-view for critical macro focusing (at maximum magnification, usually 10x).
If you do digital photography (or scan slides), spend time learning Photoshop, this is your darkroom.
Don't compose too tightly, it's easy to crop a little to get the composition right in Post Processing but impossible to put back what isn't there.
Check you have ALL your gear before heading out the door.
Don't think your lens will fit in your trouser/jeans pocket. It may but you will bend over, crouch, lean and it will fall out!
When you go out to shoot have in mind what you want to come back with and you'd be surprised how often you do.
When doing portraits NEVER ask your subject to smile. They either smile naturally or not at all.
When shooting sport get the face in the shot. If it's a ball sport get the ball in the shot.
Keep your shutter speed at 1/100s + 1/focal length for sharp shots. It's easier to fix noise caused by a higher ISO than to fix motion blur caused by a too low a shutter speed
If you have a fast lens, e.g. f/2.8, don;t always shoot at 2.8. Shoot for the background separation you need. Most lenses are not at their peak wide open.
Use condoms to cover your speed-lights in the wet
Before cleaning your lens with a micro-fibre cloth ensure that there is no grit on the lens or on the cloth
Use TTl-BL always if you use Nikon CLS.
Do not delete images off your CF card until you have two other copies stored
When taking landscapes be cognisant of the foreground the middle-ground and the background
Always use flash off camera and bounce the light if you can
When swapping lenses make sure you don't allow dust to get in. Is it windy? Drizzling? Seek protection from adverse conditions before you begin swapping.
If you can't afford to replace your gear make sure you insure it as an extra on your house insurance! It may be cheaper than you think and worth the peace of mind!
Memory cards:
Don't touch the exposed gold contacts on the card
Don't fill the card to full capacity, it may cause errors
Keep spare cards in their protective cases, not loose in pockets etc
Save images to computer and backup as soon as possible (and create a backup DVD copy for those really important images)
NEVER EVER remove the card from a camera before turning off the camera! This is a great way to not only lose your images but to literally destroy the card
If you do get an error and/or lose images, STOP! do absolutely nothing before taking the card to a camera store (or use special recovery software yourself). Image recovery software can recover files, even after formatting has taken place. DO NOT TAKE MORE IMAGES!
Use a card reader to down load your photos to the computer, don't down load straight from your camera.
(This one is debatable, but do ensure the battery on your camera is charged if you direct connect)

Lighting is critical when taking photographs. Always think about the amount of light on and around the subject.
Harsh Sunlight can throw heavy shadows, taking away colour and detail. Cloud cover can help with more even light for your photos.
Camera Shake: The slightest movement while taking a picture can lead to camera shake. Find out more about what causes this problem, and how to avoid it.
Landscape: Get Down: Avoid head-height perspective that we are all use by default. Get low to the ground can radically improve perspective and make the image zing.
Landscape: Tilt Forward: Improve the impact of your immediate location by tilting your camera forward and focusing on what's immediately in front of you; keeping the rest of the scene in frame
Landscape: Contrast: Look for a good dynamic range (lots of contrast) and maybe consider HDR processing to keep details (without overcooking it)

[Lianne]

Great list Kym, thanks for compiling it. I need to work on 13 and 23 - discipline. 65 and 91 - good tips. 58 and 82 are on the to do list.

One question though. I am not sure what you meant by


27. Look at the image in the viewfinder - not through the lens.

[Kym]

Great list Kym, thanks for compiling it. I need to work on 13 and 23 - discipline. 65 and 91 - good tips. 58 and 82 are on the to do list.
One question though. I am not sure what you meant by

For landscapes and similar fixed set-ups use live view rather than the optical viewfinder.

[honeyfly]

Excellent tips, thanks for sharing, I may have to print them off too!

[Bear Dale]

Thanks!