Total eclipse of sun exposure

[Brandy]

I, like heaps of others hope to see the total eclipse on 14th November in NQ. I would like some suggestions on how to set up my camera. Should I use a telephoto lens or what. Would love some advice please.

[Mark L]

Hope this isn't discouraging http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?102487-Solar-Eclipse-filter-advice

[Brandy]

Thank you Mark. Maybe I will just be there and not take any photos. Seems a big problem after reading your link. I believe there are going to be lots of people about for the eclipse. Hopefully the weather is kind to us all.

[ameerat42]

Brandy. About your Q posted here, I would suggest that you read up a bit on what you can see at a solar eclipse, and make up your mind what approach you would like to take.

I will not go into details here but for example, I took 3 cameras and four people to the TSE in Merimbula in 1976.
One camera was attached to a tlelscope, which was suitably filtered with the mylar solar film mentioned in the other thread. Another was just a wide angle camera to record the scene as it progressively darkened,
and the third was with a suitablly filtered 400mm lens for wider shots of the eclipsing bodies than I could get through the scope.

NOTE that your exposures will have a great amount of variation, depending on what you photograph. It will range from the bright solar disc to very dim light as in deep dusk.

To give you some idea of solar photography, look up some of the many threads posted here (Night/Astro forum) about the recent Transit of Venus.

It's certainly worth a look at a TSE and certainly to try to photograph it.

Buona fortuna!
Am.

[Brandy]

Brandy. About your Q posted here, I would suggest that you read up a bit on what you can see at a solar eclipse, and make up your mind what approach you would like to take.

I will not go into details here but for example, I took 3 cameras and four people to the TSE in Merimbula in 1976.
One camera was attached to a tlelscope, which was suitably filtered with the mylar solar film mentioned in the other thread. Another was just a wide angle camera to record the scene as it progressively darkened,
and the third was with a suitablly filtered 400mm lens for wider shots of the eclipsing bodies than I could get through the scope.

NOTE that your exposures will have a great amount of variation, depending on what you photograph. It will range from the bright solar disc to very dim light as in deep dusk.

To give you some idea of solar photography, look up some of the many threads posted here (Night/Astro forum) about the recent Transit of Venus.

It's certainly worth a look at a TSE and certainly to try to photograph it.

Buona fortuna!
Am.

Thanks Am. I have been talking to somebody who knows a lot about taking photos of the sky, stars, sun, moon and whatever (he sends photos to America each day if he has good night photos). He is only going to take the actual eclipse and as he is travelling with me, I will watch and copy. I was really wanting some photos, so will give it a shot.

thanks for your reply and I have read a lot on the Internet as well.

[ameerat42]

That's good, Brandy. Main thing: look out for your eyes. There's a tremendous amount of light with magnified images of the sun. I estimate you'll have about 30 clear seconds of naked eye viewing at totality, BUT: take other advice!!!

(Now you make me wish I was going:rolleyes:).

Am.

[dodgyexposure]

Thousand Oaks make a screw in solar filter - *removed - see site rules 3-7*. A little more expensive than buying the film and plumbing supplies (:)), but a lot easier to handle. I have a 500mm mirror lens that I will be using. I have tried it out with the solar filter on the full sun, and it made a nice (yellow) image - sunspots were clearly visible.

Very much looking forward to my first total solar eclipse!

From what I have read, you don't need the solar filter at totality, as the brightness is similar to a full moon. So my plan is to take some shots with the filter on, remove it a few minutes before totality, get a couple of shots during totality, then relax for a few minutes before putting the filter back on. Plans subject to change as I read more expert opinion.

Cheers,
Damien

[ameerat42]

Thousand Oaks make a screw in solar filter - available from *removed*. A little more expensive than buying the film and plumbing supplies (:)), but a lot easier to handle. I have a 500mm mirror lens that I will be using. I have tried it out with the solar filter on the full sun, and it made a nice (yellow) image - sunspots were clearly visible.

Very much looking forward to my first total solar eclipse!

From what I have read, you don't need the solar filter at totality, as the brightness is similar to a full moon. So my plan is to take some shots with the filter on, remove it a few minutes before totality, get a couple of shots during totality, then relax for a few minutes before putting the filter back on. Plans subject to change as I read more expert opinion.

Cheers,
Damien


Good luck with it Damien. I hope it works out. Correct as to there being no need for filters during totality, but it's not long for this eclipse.
As for the "rest" time, have a look at THIS PAGE (http://joe-cali.com/eclipses/PLANNING/TSE2012p/path.html) for some details.
The whole of totality lasts about 2 minutes. One thing you may want to try to capture at the end of totality is the "diamond ring effect". It can be spectacular, though I didn't take much note of it.
It occurs at the very end of totality and is very ephemeral, in fact (IMO) best captured as video.
Another aspect of the eclipse is called "Bailey's Beads". This is during totality and should be quite noticeable for such a short totality period.

Immediately after the DR effect you will need to use filters again.


Now, as to the timing of when you should remove and replace your filter, you had better wait until totality. Replace it just after the DR effect. If you have a "quick release" system for your filter
you will be well served, as precious seconds can count.
Am.

PS: I meant to add, at totality you should be able to see the corona. IMO a wide lens, like f=100-200mm would be good for this.

[dodgyexposure]

Good luck with it Damien. I hope it works out. Correct as to there being no need for filters during totality, but it's not long for this eclipse.
As for the "rest" time, have a look at THIS PAGE (http://joe-cali.com/eclipses/PLANNING/TSE2012p/path.html) for some details.
The whole of totality lasts about 2 minutes. One thing you may want to try to capture at the end of totality is the "diamond ring effect". It can be spectacular, though I didn't take much note of it.
It occurs at the very end of totality and is very ephemeral, in fact (IMO) best captured as video.
Another aspect of the eclipse is called "Bailey's Beads". This is during totality and should be quite noticeable for such a short totality period.

Immediately after the DR effect you will need to use filters again.


Now, as to the timing of when you should remove and replace your filter, you had better wait until totality. Replace it just after the DR effect. If you have a "quick release" system for your filter
you will be well served, as precious seconds can count.
Am.

PS: I meant to add, at totality you should be able to see the corona. IMO a wide lens, like f=100-200mm would be good for this.

Thanks!

I will be at Port Douglas, so am looking at 2 minutes for totality. Taking video of the end of totality is a great idea.

As for the "rest" time, I have read about eclipse excitement, so am expecting to need some "me time" without trying to change settings to get more photos - this could overlap with video. That's also the reason why I am not planning any lens changes.

No quick release filter, unfortunately, but I will practise taking it off and putting it on.